The area around the University of Wisconsin is one of the best places in the state to discover not just great eats, but cheap eats. Catering to the college crowd, restaurants on State Street and in the surrounding area are in high competition for the meal money of the 40,000 or so students that call this part of Madison home. State Street has long been home to some of the most interesting, flavorful food in the state and now the side streets are also filling in with food from a long list of countries and cultures. One of the very best spots to stop in for a quick bite is Paul’s Pel’meni. What was once a tiny little spot to pick up take out has moved over to a bigger location to offer up a full bar, more seating, inside and out, and the same amazing, delicious dumplings that Madisonians have come to know and love.
With the wide variety of offerings in Madison to tempt the taste buds, you know a place has to be pretty amazing when they're serving just one menu item in two different varieties for more than a decade. It's a simple, but delicious meal unlike any that can be found anywhere else in the state.
When the owner first opened years ago, he was making all the dumplings by hand by himself and serving everything off of a couple of hot plates. There were always plans to expand the menu, but making the dumplings is delicate work and training employees to get them just right hasn't left room for more. And frankly, they haven't needed anything else.
No matter when you head here, you'll run into other folks. There were almost always lines out the door when the shop was on Gorham and catered to the late night crowd. With more space and an invitation to relax with a drink or two, the new Gilman Street location is a bit more laid back and inviting. They're open till 10, so still late enough for some after-work eats, but not so late as to mean the dumplings were only sopping up sloshy stomachs.
The word Pel'meni is derived from the Russian word Pel’nyan, which literally means "ear bread." It's an unleavened dough and every little dumpling served at Paul's is made by hand using this handcrafted dough. It's a time-consuming, somewhat delicate process that leads to a thin-skinned dumpling that bursts with flavor when you eat it.
The dumplings are filled with ground beef or seasoned mashed potatoes. A half-order is about 20 dumplings and costs just $5 and a full order is about 30 dumplings for $7. Most people order them with "the works" which gets you butter, curry powder, sweet chili sauce and cilantro. All orders come with sour cream.
The tasty little pockets of flavor are just a unique, filling and comforting meal that's hard to pass up. The beef is from local Black Earth Farms. They're unlike any other dumpling you might be used to. The dough is thin and is more a vehicle than the main star. You won't be overwhelmed by a mouthful of sticky, gooey dough with Pel'meni.
The best way to order them is to get a mixed order, so you never know if the dumpling you're about to enjoy is beef or potato. Both are spectacular and the toppings add a little burst of flavor. The dumplings are both unlike anything you've had and the kind of comfort food you crave in the middle of winter. They're simple, but delicious and eating them feels a bit like someone's taking care of you. There's true heart in these little guys and they'll leave you feeling full and happy.
At such a reasonable price, this place makes the perfect spot for lunch and you'll find plenty of non-students filling the place up for a quick lunch that satisfies. Within walking distance of the Kohl Center, it's also a great spot for a pre- or post-game meal as you warm up after a walk in the frigid temps or after a hockey game.
Pel'meni truly are delightful little pillows of heaven and you can really taste the care with which they are made. There's nothing to hide behind here. It's simple ingredients mixed together perfectly to create a meal you'll want to have over and over again. It's a perfect little gem in Madison that you're going to be happy to discover.
