The Small-Town Restaurant That Is Worth A Visit From Anywhere In Washington
By Andrea Verschuyl|Published February 05, 2024
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Andrea Verschuyl
Author
Having grown up in Washington, Andrea is a self-admitted Pacific Northwest snob. In their opinion, there's simply nowhere else in the country with the Evergreen State's beauty. After attending university, Andrea devoted themselves to writing full-time. They're thrilled to represent Washington for Only In Your State while pursuing other professional and personal projects. They currently reside in Olympia, where they enjoy leaf-blowing their yard, perfecting homemade ramen, cuddling with their three tiny dogs, and feeding their pufferfish, Sea Biscuit.
Nestled in the foothills of the Cascade mountain range, Index is a community defined by its landscape. Five-hundred-foot granite cliffs hem the town's northside, and to the south, the North Fork Skykomish River surges into the larger Skykomish. With a year-round population that hovers around 200, it may seem like an unlikely incubator of cutting-edge cuisine.
But after its founding in 1889, Index quickly shrugged off its lumber and gold-reliant economy, capitalizing on its sublime natural beauty to become a tourist hub instead. North Fork Kitchen is actually located in one of the town's first hotels, the Bush House Inn, which opened for Victorian-era outdoor enthusiasts in 1898.
When he heard that the hotel's owners were searching for a talented cook to helm their kitchen, head chef Fabian Arana deserted his big-city success in Seattle, opting to bring his decades of experience to small-town Index.
The atmosphere? Effortless. Hikers won't feel underdressed if they swing through following a day in the mountains, but the interior isn't so casual that the elevated fare feels out of place.
And when it comes to nailing flavor, Chef Arana has falcon aim. For any creative, editing is hard, but diners won't miss his dispatched darlings. Under his tutelage, Nork Fork Kitchen helps the simplest ingredients shine. Shaved fennel is more complex, and French fries more elegant when given VIP treatment.
North Fork affords diners the best of both worlds: food that manages to hit the spot while maintaining its intellectual perspective. May it achieve the same longevity as the inn it calls home.
North Fork Kitchen in Index may be one of the best farm-to-table restaurants in Washington and it belongs on your bucket list. If you find yourself on one of the area’s innumerable trails, swing by for some well-deserved sustenance. You don’t even need to take off your hiking gear.
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