Port Townsend Is The Best Small Town In Washington For A Weekend Escape
By Jessica Wick|Published August 22, 2022
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Jessica Wick
Author
Jessica Wick is a writer and travel enthusiast who loves exploring new places, meeting new people and, of course, beautiful Big Sky Country and every part of Washington State.
The Paris of the Northwest. Washington’s Victorian village. The City of Dreams. Port Townsend has earned itself a lot of nicknames over the years, and it seems to wear them like a badge of honor. However you refer to this darling little city, one thing is certain: it’s practically impossible not to fall in love with it at first sight.
Not all small towns deserve the label of “charming,” but Port Townsend practically defines it. Between the Victorian architecture, the waterfront location, and the rich (and somewhat sordid) history, this place offers something for everyone, from history buffs to foodies. Spending a weekend here is simply good for the soul, a chance to take a break from the hustle and bustle of life and immerse yourself in the fresh air, history, and a pinch of the paranormal.
From the Hawaiian Island of Oahu to the coast of Massachusetts and everywhere in between, come along with OnlyInYourState as we introduce you to the best Small Town Getaways you can take this year. From nature lovers and foodies to history buffs and shopaholics, there’s something for everyone within these unforgettable, two-day itineraries curated by our local travel experts just for you.
Is Port Townsend Worth Visiting?
So, what is Port Townsend known for? There’s no denying that Port Townsend has a lot of character. But some might wonder who it’s best suited for, and which occasions… and the answer is, everyone, for anything.
Couples will love relaxing at Soak on the Sound, holding hands at the Rose Theatre, candlelit dinners at Alchemy Bistro, and seaside strolls (morning and night). Families will have a fantastic time with so many parks, activities, and adventures at Fort Worden. And you really can’t beat this destination for a friend’s getaway, between the scenic ferry ride, the numerous bookstores and shops, and the excitement of staying at the haunted Palace Hotel.
This Victorian seaport deserves a spot on your Pacific Northwest bucket list. This isn’t a city that is trying to pretend to be something it’s not, nor is it trying to offer a bunch of kitschy tourist traps in an effort to entice you. But by being its authentically charming self, this place will steal your heart.
Port Townsend is located on the northeastern tip of the Olympic Peninsula, bordered by Puget Sound and the Salish Sea.
Its location is what draws many visitors here, some of whom plan to continue on and explore the Peninsula. But even if this is your final destination, there's plenty to do right here. Just under 10,000 people call Port Townsend home, so the local economy relies heavily on tourism.
Port Townsend's history is unlike any other in Washington. It was once home to a band of Klallam Tribe and a few smaller groups of other tribes.
The first non-Native settlers arrived in 1851, and by the early 1880s, it was on the verge of becoming a bustling city. At a time when the transportation of people and goods relied so heavily on sea travel, Port Townsend was the Pacific Northwest hub.
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The city's past is quite a saga of big dreams (leading to its nickname, the City of Dreams), disappointments, near death (during the Great Depression), and beautiful rebirth. And as we know, history is often complicated.
As a result, Port Townsend is known as one of the most haunted places in the PNW... and it's not limited to one building. Quite a few of these old Victorian buildings have ghostly tales, and some have even spotted full apparitions on the city streets at night.
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Where To Stay In Port Townsend
The Palace Hotel is an especially phenomenal place to stay if you're craving a good paranormal experience. This hotel has a colorful past, operating as a saloon, a billiard parlor, and a near-decade run as a brothel dubbed the Palace of Sweets.
The hotel still has its turn of 20th-century charms, and each of the 16 rooms is named after one of the girls who worked there. Unfortunately, the world's oldest profession wasn't always pleasant. A few of the girls and hotel guests took their own lives, and many say some of the ladies of the night never left this place. The most famous story is of the Lady in Blue, Claire, who still hangs around Room 4.
The Manresa Castle is another iconic hotel in town, made famous by its appearance on the Travel Channel's Ghost Adventures.
Rooms 302, 304, and 306 seem to see the most paranormal activity here. For less "active" hotels, try staying at Harborside Inn, The Belmont, or The Swan Hotel. But in a city like this, there are no guarantees.
How To Get To Port Townsend
Reaching Port Townsend is quite a bit easier than accessing some of the spots on the Olympic Peninsula.
If you live in the Seattle area, you can reach it by ferry. Driving the land route alone, Port Townsend is roughly a two-hour drive north of Olympia and one hour east of Port Angeles. If you're coming from Eastern Washington, you'll want to allow five or six hours. From U.S. 101 at the tip of Discovery Bay, SR-20 splits off and runs 13 miles to the downtown area.
Best Time To Visit Port Townsend
The busiest season to visit is summer, but there's never a bad time to go. Port Townsend's charm is not diminished by gray, rainy weather; in fact, winters here are fairly mild.
The city is home to some pretty enticing festivals, including the Wooden Boat Festival and the Port Townsend Film Festival (both in September), and the Victorian Heritage Festival in late April.
Things To Do In Port Townsend
A two-day trip to Port Townsend should always start with an afternoon exploring all the unique shops.
You won't find chain stores or many tourist trap-like spots here. Instead, you can expect to see small stores owned by individuals who are proud of the inventory. Places like Phoenix Rising, Magpie Alley, and the numerous antique shops and bookstores can't be replicated.
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Owl Spirit Cafe is a favorite local lunch spot, serving nourishing salads, sandwiches, and soups.
Soak on the Sound is a clean, quiet bathhouse that specializes in private saltwater soaking tubs, which you can book for $44 for 50 minutes. The tubs can easily accommodate up to five people. You can also use the infrared sauna for a detoxifying experience.
Silverwater Cafe has come a long way from its 1989 opening when it was a small fish shack. While this is the perfect place to eat local, you can also have the time of your life at the charming, romantic Alchemy Bistro and Wine Bar or, if you're there with the family, Waterfront Pizza.
If you can, make sure you wrap up your meal in time to catch the sunset from the pier... or anywhere, really.
The sight of the sun sinking over the Salish Sea will make you thankful the PNW exists.
The majority of day two of your trip should be dedicated to exploring Fort Worden Historical State Park. Fort Worden was once a United States Army Coast Artillery Corps base constructed to protect Puget Sound from invasion by sea.
These days, it's one of the top historic state parks in the state. Between the two miles of saltwater shoreline, picnic areas, campsites and conference center, historic sites, and more, it would be easy to spend an entire day here.
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Fort Worden was an active U.S. Army base from 1902 to 1953. Fortunately, it never did see much action.
The forts never fired a hostile shot, and many of the guns were removed during World War I for use in Europe. After spending some time as a juvenile treatment center, The Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission acquired most of Fort Worden in 1971. It became an official state park two years later.
Given this area's history, it should come as no surprise that some people claim Fort Worden is haunted. In fact, it's known as Washington's most haunted campground.
We couldn't find any record of an official investigation, but the reports from park visitors, hikers, and campers are nearly endless. People have heard voices and moans from the confines of the dark hallways of the barracks. At dusk, images of vibrating lights can be seen inside some of the buildings that don’t have running electricity. The smell of burning coal, burning rubber, or hot sulfur has been noticed in the front area of the main house, just inside the front door. Of course, it's all hearsay, and your experience at Fort Worden will be quiet and peaceful. Still... it's impossible not to wonder how many secrets this place is harboring.
After returning from your day at the state park, treat yourself to a delicious dinner and try to catch a show at the Rose Theatre.
The Rose opened as a vaudeville house in 1907, so to say it has seen a lot of changes would be an understatement. This place has been entertaining locals since the days of silent films, although it was closed for nearly three decades before Rocky Friedman resurrected it with the help of the community. These days, it's more popular than ever.
The movies shown at The Rose Theatre are modern, but the experience still feels like going back in time. You'll feel the nostalgia as soon as you step inside, even if you've never been here.
And if you're looking for a more elevated experience, this is also where you purchase tickets for a show at the nearby Starlight Room, a 21 and over auditorium that serves beer, wine, and that famous Rose Theatre popcorn.
When you wake up on your final morning in Port Townsend, head to Chetzemoka Park on Jackson Street for a scenic walk. With a stunning view of the Cascades, this park sits on a gently sloping hillside overlooking Admiralty Inlet.
Chetzemoka Park was Port Townsend's original community park, established in 1904 as the first project of the newly formed Civic Club. In 1987, the park beach was severely damaged by storms and high tides, but fortunately, the necessary repairs were made. With a gazebo, picnic areas, BBQs, and playgrounds, this place is perfectly inviting.
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Follow the paths at Chetzemoka Park that take you straight to the water. When the tide is out, you can walk to Fort Worden from here.
Don't forget to spend plenty of time exploring the rest of the park, however. You can stroll down winding paths along the wooded cliff and walk under a rose-covered trellis to a tropical water garden. The lavish flower gardens are a point of community pride. This park is named after Chief Chetzemoka of the S’Klallam tribe, who was kind and welcoming to many early pioneers.
Before you leave town, fill your belly at the cozy, quirky, beloved Blue Moose Cafe.
The Blue Moose serves hearty breakfasts all day in a rustic setting, and it's an absolute local treasure. It's hard to leave this place in a bad mood, especially after devouring Grandma Byrds’ Biscuits & Gravy.
As you can see, there’s so much to love and appreciate about Port Townsend. Do you think you’d enjoy a weekend getaway to this delightful Washington small town? Let us know in the comments.
Not Your Average Bucket List Podcast
Only In Your State’s podcast Not Your Average Bucket List takes a deep dive into Port Townsend, Washington and everything it has to offer. Our hosts, Marisa Roman and Sara Heddleston, discuss what their “Perfect Day” in Port Townsend would consist of. From wildlife hiking trails to sleeping in a cottage by the ocean, take a look at the infographic below to get your own suggestions for the perfect day exploring this small town.
To discover even more about Port Townsend, Washington in a fun, easily-digestible manner, tune in to OnlyInYourState’s brand new podcast, Not Your Average Bucket List, where we talk all about this charming town. Listen now on Spotify and Apple Podcasts.
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