This Denali Climb In Alaska Became One Of The Deadliest In History
By Courtney|Published December 30, 2016
×
Courtney
Author
Living and loving life in Alaska, Courtney enjoys living a happy life based on simple principles; work hard, be kind, stay humble. She is an avid dog lover with hobbies that include running, fly fishing, hiking & snowboarding.
This extreme expedition to summit North America’s tallest peak has forever left a dark, deadly stain on Alaska’s history. Since the time of the deadliest climb in history on Denali, over 100 more lives have been lost on the mountain. Today this climb has really become an industry within itself, and mountaineers die every year from reasons such as heart attacks and falls. Only the brave shall attempt and only the strong shall survive. But when the harsh elements of the weather system come into play, no one is safe on America’s most notorious mountain.
Jolting up 20,310 feet above sea level, Denali is one of the most challenging and dangerous peaks to traverse on planet earth. Nearly 50 years ago in 1967, two teams of young climbers set out to climb what is known as the highest peak in North America.
Originally this expedition was comprised of two different teams. The Wilcox Expedition was nine young men, led by a 24-year-old from Utah. The Colorado Expedition, was led by a man named Howard Snyder and he had four men in his group.
The two teams were set to climb the mountain at the same time, using the same route. So naturally, they discussed techniques and sharing particular items such as fixed lines, strategies and more.
But just seven hours before the journey was about to unfold, a member of The Colorado Expedition was in a car accident causing him to drop out. That ended up putting the team below the National Park Service's required group size to climb the mountain.
After asking, Colorado joined forces with Wilcox and all remaining climbers were now set to climb collectively, after just meeting. As the 12 person team arrived at base camp, clear divisions or differing personality types and climbing styles became a noteworthy concern from the get go.
It wasn't long before high winds started to pick up. There was also a 'high' in the south which parked right over-top of the mountain range. On top of that, there was a wet low that came in from the north.
The two systems clashed together in utter destruction for seven full days. The weather essentially created the most deadly force that has ever been reckoned with on Denali.
Although there were moments of 'lull' when the climbers were optimistic that the storm would pass, the winds still continued to howl at speeds up to 300 mph.
These 12 young men were forced together by unforeseen circumstances and although they didn't get along productively under such stressful circumstances, they were ultimately all in the wrong place at the wrong time.
Seven members of the 12 man team were never heard from again. When rescuers finally arrived at base camp, they found a shattered tent with a corpse holding the tent pole. It was a gruesome discovery as the body had already started to decompose. Only two other bodies were found out of the seven lives lost.
Andy Hall, who is a former editor at Alaska Magazine, wrote the book 'Denali's Howl' documenting this tragic event. At the time of the deaths, he was just five years old and his father was the superintendent of Denali National Park and one of the rangers who led the rescue mission.
This incredibly well written book is a must-read if you are interested in learning more about this tragic expedition that will forever leave a deadly mark on Alaska's history.
For just a brief look into the Denali climbing experience, check out this excellent YouTube footage below.
You might also enjoy this gripping footage of ‘The Denali Experiment’ where a professional free-ride skier and a big-mountain snowboarder takes on North America’s tallest peak.
